HomeContainer FruitsHow to Grow Zucchini in a Pot Successfully

How to Grow Zucchini in a Pot Successfully

Learn How to Grow Zucchini in a Pot Successfully and enjoy a fresh and organic harvest in a small space all year round with ease!

Even if you have a shortage of space, you can grow this vegetable in pots in your balcony or patio. Let’s have a look at How to Grow Zucchini in a Pot Successfully!

Learn how to grow cilantro in a pot here

Best Varieties to Grow in Pots

How to Grow Zucchini in a Pot The best zucchini to grow in pots are ‘Raven,’ ‘Eight Ball,’ ‘Geode,’ and ‘Jackpot Hybrid.’ You can grow these compact varieties in a small space and harvest this container vegetable fresh without having a garden.

Choosing a Container

A 14-18 inches deep and wide pot is apt for the zucchini plants. Whether you choose plastic, ceramic, or terracotta, make sure it comes with drainage holes. Compact varieties like Gourmet Gold, Magda, Bush Baby, Golden Egg, and Patio Star can be grown in 8-12 inches pot.

Plastic pots are cheaper and lightweight, but they are also non-porous and may encourage water-logging. Ceramic pots are attractive, yet heavy, and non-porous. However, terra cotta pots, being porous and aesthetic, offer the perfect balance.

Requirements for Growing Zucchini in a Pot


Place your container zucchini plant in a sunny location. An area that receives six to eight hours of sun exposure will work fine for the plant.


Zucchini requires a moist, organic, and well-draining potting mix to thrive and flourish. Make sure to use an aerated soil mix, loose enough to allow water retention, yet compact to drain out the excess water. Like all squash plants, zucchini grows best in mildly acidic soil (pH: 6.0 to 7.5).


Zucchini needs optimum levels of water to grow well. Ensure the topsoil stays damp, and the soil remains moist till one inch, at least. In the summer months, you may need to water the plant thrice a week and reduce this frequency during rainfall.

Ideally, watering at dawn allows the foliage to dry off by nighttime, preventing the colonization of pathogenic pests.

Also, avoid overhead watering, as it mainly directs the water on the foliage, promoting diseases in turn. Instead, trickle water slowly into the soil so that it gets ample time to penetrate before running off. If you live in a region subjected to heavy rains, manual watering with a hose is an economical option.


Zucchinis are warm-weather crops that do best in bright, filtered sunlight. Daytime temperatures of around 70 F (21 C) and nighttime temperatures of 40 F (4 C) are conducive for their growth. Wait till the soil has attained at least 60 F (15 C) before starting seeds. Plants grown in cold soil show stunted growth.


Zucchini is a pretty bulky plant, producing up to 10 pounds of fruit during the growing season. As a result, overplanting is out of the question. Additionally, it helps to ensure a 2-4 feet spacing between adjacent plants. This also allows air circulation and prevents the spread of diseases.

Zucchini Plant Care

What size container to grow zucchini in


A general fertilizer, with 10-10-10 NPK, works best, as it contains nitrogen as well as potassium and phosphorous, to stimulate flowering and fruit production. When using a water-soluble fertilizer, dilute it further according to the manufacturer’s instructions.


Pruning zucchini plants help to curb their invasiveness while removing any dead or damaged stems and leaves. Snip off leaves and stems at the base of the plant once they turn yellow and crispy.


Composting is an accurate way to ensure soil drainage and prolonged water retention. Spread a two-inch deep layer of compost over the soil and work it in, up to 8-inches deep, before planting your crops.

Composting slows down water intake in sandy soils while making it easier to access the compacted soil mixes.


Zucchini does well with springtime mulching. Spread two-inch of organic mulch, involving shredded leaves and grass clippings, around seedlings. The mulch will warm up the soil, maintaining steady temperatures during growth, and will also promote moisture retention.

Pests and Disease

Zucchini plants are particularly sensitive to fungal diseases and insect attacks. Safeguard them from insects by keeping these points in mind.

  • Grow disease-resistant container varieties of zucchini.
  • Remove infected leaves to prevent spread and do not compost them.
  • Use copper dust thrice a month, to limit the spread of fungal diseases.
  • Do not water the foliage. Drip irrigation is a more controlled way of watering, as it keeps the leaves in good condition.


Before pollinating, you need to understand how the male and female flowers look. 

  • Male flowers have straight and thin stems behind the petals. They have powdery, yellow pollens.
  • Female flowers have tiny immature zucchini fruit at the back of the petals.
  • It is best to hand pollinate them in the morning, as they open for a long duration at that time.
  • Using a brush, take the pollen from male flowers and gently brush it over fully opened female flowers.


The plant will be ready to harvest in 45 to 55 days when the squash becomes 6-10 inches in length. Do not pull them away from the plant and make a clean cut using a sharp knife.


  1. The article was very informative, my biggest problem with growing zucchini is the squash bug attacks .I no there are a lot of methods what is your best line of defense against them? Is it best to just buy a bag of potting soil and put in a pot ,seems like direct soil contact is a failure in most cases. I will try your methods ,thanks for your info.

  2. Zucchini fruits that rot at the flower end of the fruit the end opposite the stem are commonly suffering from blossom-end rot. This is caused by a lack of calcium in the soil; calcium is important for plant cell wall development. Side dressing the plants with a fertilizer that contains calcium will alleviate this problem for hew fruits that develop on the vine. It the fruits are rotting at the stem end, this may be a sign of a bacterial disease associated with excess water or a bacterial organism in the soil that has infected the fruit because it is sitting in soil too wet. Bacterial diseases and other diseases in the garden often take hold and spread when plants are planted too close together and there is insufficient air circulation or the soil is poorly drained and stays wet. Leaves and fruits turning white may be a sign of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or downy mildew. The white you see is fungal spores that grow rapidly and spread. Overwatering and too much nitrogen in the soil can cause mildews to grow and spread; spacing plants further apart can slow fungal diseases. All of the above said, an alternative cause of the fruit rot and fruit and leaves turning white is too little water. If that is the case, the leaves will be papery and brittle as a result of sunburn.


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