Here is how to propagate a pink princess philodendron like a pro! You just need to get these steps and tricks right.
One Pink Princess can become several plants, but not every cutting is worth the effort. The trick is to look beyond the leaves and find a healthy node with promising variegation.
But this is just the tip of the iceberg! Here’s how to propagate Pink Princess Philodendron like a pro, with simple techniques that can make a big difference.
How to Propagate Pink Princess Philodendron Like a Pro
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1. Select the Right Cutting
Start with a healthy Pink Princess Philodendron that is actively growing and free from obvious pests, disease, or rotting tissue. Then look at the stem rather than choosing a cutting based only on the largest or pinkest leaf.
You need at least one healthy node. On a climbing Philodendron, a node usually appears as a slightly raised section or joint on the stem, close to where the leaf and petiole emerge.
Such a healthy node with some visible variegated tissue gives you a better starting point for new variegated growth. If the node has a small aerial root already, even better; leave it attached. Aerial roots are useful because they can readily transition into functioning roots.
Pro Tip: A cutting with a healthy mix of green and pink tissue is generally a better choice than an almost completely pink or white section, which has less chlorophyll available for photosynthesis.
When you’ve finally decided on your cutting, use a sharp pair of pruning shears to make a clean cut.
2. Cut Them Right Below the Node
Once you’ve chosen your cutting, use sharp, clean pruning shears or scissors. Wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol before cutting, and avoid handling the freshly cut surface unnecessarily. Now the important stuff.
Variegation can vary from one cutting to the next, so even a healthy pink princess cutting may not produce the exact same pink pattern as its parent plant. That’s why it’s best to start multiple cuttings at the same time.
If you’re working with a long vine, identify your nodes first. Each cutting you plan to keep must contain at least one viable node.
How to do it? Make your cut just below the node, leaving a small section of stem beneath it. This gives you enough stem to handle the cutting and position the node in your chosen rooting medium. More on it below!
Here are some of the most beautiful pink philodendrons that you can choose from for your propagations!
3. Root It in Water or Moist Moss
Once you’ve taken your cutting, you have several rooting options. Now, water propagation is the easiest place to start because you can see the roots developing through the container.
Sphagnum moss is another excellent option, particularly for short cuttings or pieces that are difficult to position securely in water.
Water Propagation
Fill a clean container with water and position the cutting so that the node is submerged, and keep the leaves and petioles above the waterline.
If your cutting keeps sliding into the jar, use a narrow-necked glass or let the petiole rest gently across the rim. You can also use a small propagation vessel designed to hold individual cuttings upright.
Change the water about once a week, or sooner if it becomes cloudy, dirty, or develops an unpleasant smell.
Pro Tip: Put a small piece of tape on the outside of the jar at the original water level. If the water evaporates, you can easily see how much has been lost without guessing.
Make propagation easier by having a propagation stand. Get one from here.
Sphagnum Moss/Coir Propagation
Sphagnum moss is useful for short or awkwardly shaped cuttings that are difficult to keep upright in water.
Just soak the moss, then squeeze out excess water–it should be evenly damp, not dripping wet. Then, place the node against or slightly into the moss, keeping it snug but not tightly packed. That’s it!
Give the cuttings a minimum of two weeks to settle down, absorb the nutrients, and gradually develop new growth; that’s the secret!
Get your sphagnum moss from here.
4. Give It the Right Light While It Roots
Once your cutting is set up, the next job is to give it the right growing conditions.
Bright, indirect light is a good choice. At the same time, harsh direct sunlight can overheat a small propagation container and place unnecessary stress on the cutting.
A warm location is also helpful since rooting tends to be more reliable when the plant is actively growing rather than sitting in a cold, dim room. Good air circulation matters too.
Here’s what to do: Keep the cutting near an east-facing window, where it can receive plenty of bright, filtered light without harsh afternoon sun. A few feet back from a brighter south- or west-facing window can also work well, especially if you use a sheer curtain to soften the sunlight.
Avoid dark corners, shelves far from windows, and spots directly beside air conditioners or heaters, where temperature and humidity can fluctuate. Simple, right?
5. Try Air Layering Before Cutting All Vines
Have a particularly beautiful, heavily variegated section that you’re nervous about cutting? Air layering is the go-to.
Instead of removing the section immediately, encourage roots to develop around a healthy node while it is still attached to the mother plant. You can wrap the node with damp sphagnum moss and keep it consistently moist until roots begin to form.
Once you have a good cluster of roots, cut the rooted section below the node and pot it into a small container filled with a loose, well-draining aroid mix.
This method takes more time, but keeping the section attached during root development means it can continue receiving water and nutrients from the mother plant before you separate it.
Get yourself a well-draining aroid mix from here.
6. Pot It Only After Real Roots Develop
Seeing one tiny root nub is encouraging, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the cutting is ready to live independently in potting mix.
You should give the cutting time to develop a small, functioning root system rather than transplanting it at the first sign of root growth.
For water-propagated cuttings, roots of roughly 2–5 cm (about 1–2 inches), especially when you can see some branching, are a good practical point to consider moving to soil.
Pro Tip: Use a loose, well-draining aroid-style mix that allows both moisture and air to reach the roots. The exact recipe can vary, but the important thing is to avoid a dense mix that stays saturated for long periods.
After potting, give the new plant consistent care. The mix should remain lightly and evenly moist during the initial transition, but it should never remain waterlogged.
If you don’t have a pot for the new cutting, then you can buy one with drainage holes from here.
Propagating pink princess philodendron is less about rushing the roots and more about making a smart cut in the first place. Choose a promising node, preserve any useful aerial roots, provide stable conditions, and be patient.
Most importantly, remember that roots can be predictable; pink variegation isn’t. And, for more exciting facts about this dramatic influencer, read this Diary of Pink Princess Philodendron: Book 2.
